The Scottish Mountain Heritage Collection
009.2007.1
Stubai Aschenbrenner ice axe
21/11/2007
Maxine Willett
21/11/2007
'Stubai' Aschenbrenner ice axe, steel head, wooden shaft, serrated pick, adze. Leather cover for head of axe, in two parts fastened with a metal buckle, split at end seam. Pointed spike on ferrule in red rubber protector.
Steel, wood, leather, rubber
34.8 (w) x 98.2 (l) x 7.3 (d) cm
3
Stubai logo on pick and "ORIGINAL ASCHENBRENNER GES.GESCH, MADE IN AUSTRIA" Ferrule stamped with "J & W Ltd LONDON, WC1" Also initials "ASJ" carved into shaft.
Grey, brown, red
Stubai
Austria
Belonged to ASJ
Peter Aschenbrenner was an Austrian Mountain Guide (1902-1998) who was somewhat controversially involved in early expeditions to climb Nanga Parbat in the Himalaya. The German led - and Hitler backed - expedition of 1934 ended in disaster when several Sherpas perished, the result being that Aschenbrenner and fellow expedition member Schneider were hauled before a 'court of honour' for 'abandonment' of Sherpas and were excluded from further expeditions to Nanga Parbat. This was later rescinded and he was back in 1953 taking over the role of expedition leader from Karl Harrligkoffer. On this occasion, Herman Buhl made the summit alone, to claim the first ascent and though the expedition had technically been a success there was much acrimony.
Aschenbrenner left behind a much less controversial legacy in the form of an ice axe which he developed in the early 1930's and got the Stubai company to manufacture for him. These axes became almost universal in the mountains from the mid 1930's right up to the 1960's when metal and alloy shafted tools began to take over. There were many variations and it seems that some were custom made. Batches were made for German mountain troops during WWII and thousands were exported to the UK, mostly just after WWII, many of which have found their way into our collection.
Not sure who 'ASJ' was unfortunately but we think J&W refers to Jackson and Warr who were mountaineering folk back in the 1950's and 60's.
21/11/2007
Fair, rusty metalwork, split seam
21/11/2007
Spectrum : UK Museum documentation standard, V.3.1 2007
28/04/2009