The Scottish Mountain Heritage Collection
595.2008.1
'Dead baby'
03/12/2008
Hermione Cooper
03/12/2008
Pentagonal metal plate attached to a wire with a loop on the end. Round hole in corner of plate.
metal
18(l) x 14(w) cms
1
An ellipse with "CLOG WALES" inside.
silver
Clog
Wales
Rather unpleasantly named this 'dead baby' is the smallest of the deadman anchors - deadman and deadboy being the senior relatives. Never very popular, as they only worked well in solid snow conditions, not many were produced, so this is a wee rarity. Donated by Rev. Anne Whinning who was a stalwart of the Ladies Scottish Climbing Club, it is a nice little addition to the family!!
The following extract from a Scottish Mountaineering Club Journal by Graham Tiso gives a little background:-
"Snow anchors, of a type known as Dead Men in Britain, were introduced to mountaineers by climbers who had served with the British Antarctic Survey. In the Antarctic a piece of marine plywood with a heavy rope threaded through the centre is used to anchor dog teams, huts, aeroplanes, etc.
It was soon realised in Scotland that a wire loop would cut through the snow more easily than a rope and it seemed likely that aluminium alloy plate would be lighter, stronger and more durable than a plywood plate. It also seemed sensible to make the plate pointed at the bottom and to reinforce the top so that it could be hammered into hard snow.
A series of preliminary tests were undertaken on various types of sno^ anchor in the Cairngorms on the 16th and 17th February, 1969.
THE DEAD FAMILY.—These were most impressive. The wire could be broken at will before extraction on Dead Men (25cm x 20cm) even when placed incorrectly. Dead Boys (15cmx 13cm) also worked well and amazingly one Dead Baby (13cm X 10cm) also suffered wire failure before extraction. It seems likely however that the smaller sizes could work less well in softer snow and the Dead Man (size 5) is considered the standard size in Britain."
Donated by Rev. Anne Whinning
03/12/2008
28/04/2009
Bohuntin
Bohuntin
Spectrum : UK Museum documentation standard, V.3.1 2007
28/04/2009