The Scottish Mountain Heritage Collection
998.2012.1(a-c)
'Friends'
01/08/2012
Hermione Cooper
01/08/2012
Sizes 2,3,and 4 spring loaded solid stemmed camming devices.
aluminium
14,15,16(l) x 4,7,10(w) cms
3
On sides "*** WILD COUNTRY FRIEND 3,4,5 US PATENT 4184657 MADE IN ENGLAND"
silver
Wild Country
England
Russian Mountaineer, Vitaly Abalokov, is credited with inventing the first spring loaded camming device though it was American climber, Ray Jardine, who perfected the idea and invented/ created the 'friend' in 1978. The story goes that whilst he and his climbing partner were experimenting with prototype camming devices in America's Yosemite Valley, other climbers appeared for a chat. Not wishing to give the game away when sorting their gear, Jardine asked his mate if he'd brought his 'friends' along with him - the name stuck.
Though patented in America, it was the British Company, Wild Country, who began manufacturing them back in the 1980's, initially with the solid stem versions that we have here and later with the 'flexible friend.' 2012 saw the launch of the 'helium friend' which, whilst still flexible, is lighter and slightly longer.
Though 'friends' has become the generic term for all camming devices there are several other brands on the market; Camelots, by Black Diamond being perhaps the most notable.
Though still perfectly servicable (in our opinion) solid stem friends were deemed obsolete by Wild Country back in the 1990's and whilst this is supposedly an engineering decision some folk think it was a ploy to sell more of the flexible versions when they came on the market!
The three fine examples we have here were donated by Mick Tighe and his two pals, Simon Fraser and John McClenaghan.
Donated by Mick Tighe, Simon Fraser and John McClenaghan
01/08/2012
01/08/2012
Spectrum : UK Museum documentation standard, V.3.1 2007
01/08/2012