Objects Database

Chouinard 'Crack and Up'

Accession Number

1099.2013.1

Object Name

Chouinard 'Crack and Up'

Created

12/11/2013

Creator

Hermione Cooper

Accession Date

12/11/2013

Brief Description

Anchor shaped Chouinard 'Crack and Up'

Materials

metal

Dimensions

8(l) x 5.5(w) cms

Number Of Objects

1

Inscription Description

Diamond with a 'C' inside and below that a "3" and "USA"

Colour

silver

Maker

Chouinard

Object Production Place

USA

Provenance

Bit of a rarity this fella and whilst it once belonged to founder of The Scottish Mountain Heritage Collection, Mick Tighe, he admits to never having used it - too scary!!
The ever inventive American climber, Yvon Chouinard, created the first 'Crack and Up' in 1975 and here's what the Crag's magazine had to say about it a year or so later :-

"Well, hello sailor — stay aboard and you will find that the latest development in climbing protection has taken a very nautical turn.
The main advancements in design have come in latter years from 'CHOUINARD', and his
'Stoppers' are now available in half sizes (The mind boggles.)
Recently, the most bizarre looking nut ever seen came on the market called the 'Crack and Up', once again by Chouinard who has this knack for producing the unexpected As can be seen from the diagram, it looks basically very similar to a sky¬hook. But, the hook part is wedge-shaped and is slid into the crack in the same way as any nut. However, the arm is offset and when a down¬ward force is applied there is the twin action of wedging and cam¬ming. They work amazingly well for aid and given an ounce of nerve for protection. They are available in five different sizes from wafer-thin to just below the smallest nut size—but at £1.90 each might prove difficult to leave the shops. (Will the crags resound to cries of 'Hello Sailor' and 'Anchors Away'?"

'Crack and Ups' were not too popular in the UK but did get some use in the likes of Yosemite in the USA.

Acquisition Method

Donated by Mick Tighe

Acquisition Date

12/11/2013

Condition Check Date

12/11/2013

Rules

Spectrum : UK Museum documentation standard, V.3.1 2007

Modified

12/11/2013

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