The Scottish Mountain Heritage Collection
1132.2014.1
Knifeblade (RURP)
03/06/2014
Hermione Cooper
03/06/2014
L shaped RURP or knifeblade on rope
metal
3.2(l) x 2.2(h) cms
1
"CMI 21"
silver
CMI ( Colorado Mountain Industries)
USA
This little piton is called a knifeblade or sometimes a RURP(Realised Ultimate Reality Piton. The original versions were designed by American climbers Tom Frost and Yvon Chouinard back in 1960 and were used -as a last resort- for driving into cracks whilst aid climbing on the great Yosemite walls of California.
The one we have here is a much later version - circa 1990 - produced by CMI (Colorado Mountain Industries) who, rather confusingly, are now located in West Virginia under new ownership.
Mick Tighe acquired this little fella from fellow collector Art McCarthy over in California.
Yvon Chouinard explains the history of his own RURP in the 1978 version of his Great Pacific Iron Works Catalogue.
Chouinard RURP
We developed the Realized Ultimate Reality Piton in 1960 specifically for the ascent of the West Face of Kat Pinnacle in Yosemite. Since then it has become standard equipment on major artificial climbing around the rest of the world. Used in bottoming incipient cracks, it has helped to stem the malignant growth of bolt placement by opening otherwise unclimbable passages. The RURP is stamped from a very tough high alloy steel and has a machine ground taper.
Blade Length: 1/2 inch Weight: 1/2 ounce Price: $1.35
Donated by Art McCarthy
03/06/2014
03/06/2014
Spectrum : UK Museum documentation standard, V.3.1 2007
03/06/2014