The Scottish Mountain Heritage Collection
1673.2022.1(a-e)
Troll Wedges (early 1960's versions)
05/08/2022
Hermione Cooper
05/08/2022
Five Troll Wedges on tape, rope and wire
aluminium alloy
a-2(D) b-1.8(D) c-1.9(D) d-1.7(D) e-2.3(D) cms
5
"TROLL" on each one and "5" on one and "6" on three others
silver
Troll
England
The story goes that rock climbers found nuts(as in nuts and bolts) lying beside the Snowdon railway track when they were off climbing and they proved to be much better than the pebbles and chockstones in use at the time. They would be jammed in a crack with the rope threaded around it to make an anchor. Several nuts could be threaded on one rope sling to fit a variety of cracks and fissures….it was the 1950’s and the age of the nut had arrived giving life to the generic term ‘nuts’ a collective term for all forms of rock protection for decades to come.
Blacksmith and Mountain Guide, John Brailsford, was the first to develop a commercial nut back in 1961. He called it an Acorn and early versions incorporated an actual nut as well.
He went on to create what some folk think is the greatest nut of all time,the MOAC, though this was wedge shaped and set the scene for others to emulate.
Companies such as Troll and Clog were quick to follow and we’ve a fine variety of Troll wedges from the 1960’s here in the collection.
These early versions were pretty crude and the production line rather erratic. Three of the ones here are stamped with a 6 even though they are different sizes, the two the same size are stamped 5&6 respectively.
Thanks to Jon Jones, sixties climber, for donating this fine little snapshot of nuts history.
Donated by Jon Jones
05/08/2022
05/08/2022
Spectrum : UK Museum documentation standard, V.3.1 2007
05/08/2022